February 10, 2009

The Palio.




'Il Palio' happens twice a year in Siena (July 2 and August 16). The city of Siena is divided into 17 contradas (wards), each acting as their own city-state with their own mascot, flag, cabinet, etc... During those two days, all 10 contradas gather together inside the Piazza Del Campo to watch the 10 horses and jockeys race bareback (not all 17 race). The winner will be granted a hand painted, silk banner, and pride for an entire year until the following year's Palio takes place.

The picking of the horses happens 4 days before the date. Sometimes, the best jockey will be cursed with the worst horse. It's all at random and completely fair so the chances of getting the horse you want depends on... luck?

The jockeys race bareback, which means that there is no saddle on the horse. A lot of money is exchanged during the time of the Palio, however, nobody gambles/bets. A lot of bribery takes place between the contradas and jockeys. Such deals include racing poorly for the contradas enemy, paying the jockey a lot of euros so that the jockey won't "get in their way" during the race, etc...

There is only a winner. Whoever is second place experiences a 'purge' and is still recognized as the loser. The winner is forced to pay money but gain recognition, while the losers get money but feel shitty.

To tourists, The Palio looks like just a horse race. To the Sienese, however, these events are all they know. They found evidence that Siena has had a Palio since early 13th century. During marriages, births, and funerals, the guy that tosses the flag (?? forgot his name. oops.) is at all of the events because each person's contrada is just THAT important to them. Babies are born into their contradas (so when two parents from different contradas get married, there is always a fuss as to which contrada the baby belongs to). The babies also get a cute little birth certificate certifying which contrada they're in. The citizens of Siena categorize themselves by their contradas before calling themselves 'Sienese'.

There is way more information that what I just wrote, but that's all I want to write because I'm really sleepy. How cool is that though? How cool is all of that culture and history? This is an event that every single Sienese goes to, understands, and participates in. This is their life, glory, and interest. Through all the tough times Italy has experienced, The Palio is still the tradition that happens every year. Nobody makes summer vacation plans in case their contrada gets picked to race (which they won't know until around a week before the actual race). I hope I can watch it this year!

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